Rickshaws explained
We're on the train from Delhi to Jaipur. Alledgely an express train, but you wouldn't know it from the speed we're travelling. But then, the fact that we made it to the station at all is a tale of arguement, threats and death defying. Of course it always is with rickshaw drivers, but this morning was exceptional.
Auto rickshaws have meters, but with little exception, they go unused. Fares must be negotiated first, which usually takes a few minutes. We're usually fairly certain of the correct fair before seeking a rickshaw. We have to be, because, as forgeiners, we're usually quoted ~4x the correct fare.
But simply knowing the correct fare does not mean the rickshaw driver wil agree to it. Many will completely refuse to take passengers unless they can over charge by at least double, indian and forgeiner alike. Ask enough drivers and one will eventually agree to the right price, not so much this morning.
We were staying near New Delhi station, but needed to get to Sarai Rohilla Delhi station 6km away. Try as we might, we could not get a rickshaw to agree to the correct price. The problem is so rampent in India that the police run prepaid rickshaw stands with printed fares at many stations. You pay and get a slip which rickshaw drivers are required to take as payment, and usually will with the police standing there. Not so much this morning.
The officer waived down a rickshaw and a shouting match immediately ensued. The driver, not wanting to take us, began to drive away still shouting, with the officer and I half on the rickshaw, and Jenn looking confused and mildly terrified. After a few minutes of arguing, wrestling, threats of arrest and near death we had a rickshaw, the police emergency phone number and one seriously surly, reluctant, but ultimately compliant driver.
Rickshaws suck.
Update: I didn't get to send this until we got to Jaipur. We found a cheap dive of a hotel (like every hotel we stay at) and we'll be here for a couple days.
posted by Rashid Khan @ 2:33 AM,

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